After more than four decades of serving delicious Chinese cuisine and building a tight-knit community, Lake of China – the town’s first authentic Chinese-owned restaurant – is closing its doors this weekend as its founding family announces their well-earned retirement.
Brothers Michael and Alan Chan, with their respective wives Joanne and Teresa and families, are looking forward to retirement and a little rest for a while.
Michael reflected on his age and said he had been working long enough.
Alan said he was looking forward to the future, continuing to help his family and do some more fishing, while Michael said he would take more holidays.
The Chans will continue living in Bairnsdale as its the place they have called home for more than 40 years.Last weekend the restaurant was filled with supporters and friends of the business for many years, as well as younger adults who had started their working lives at the restaurant.
Speaking with the Advertiser, supporters and Chan family friends were full of praise and admiration as the family closed the doors on part of Bairnsdale’s history.
The family, in their humble and polite manner, were appreciative of the support the local community had given them consistently over many years.
The story of Lake of China is a true tale of family, food and fearless ambition. It began in the bustling streets of Hong Kong, where brothers Michael and Peter developed their skills working in restaurants. Seeking greater opportunity, they made the life-changing decision to migrate to Australia in the mid-1970s, settling in Elwood, Melbourne. They both worked at restaurants across Chinatown and even gained experience at one of Melbourne’s most prestigious Chinese restaurants, Flower Orum, where they honed their culinary and hospitality skills.
It was during this time that fate played a hand. The brothers met Chas and Kate Heath of King and Heath Real Estate, and from a casual conversation over dinner at the Oriental Gourmet, the idea of opening a Chinese restaurant in Bairnsdale was born.
At the time, the town had no authentic Chinese-owned dining establishments, so the vision was to bring traditional Chinese flavours and warm hospitality to East Gippsland.
Construction on the new venture began soon after and in 1981 Lake of China officially opened its doors at 75 Main Street, offering a welcoming atmosphere and fresh, flavourful dishes to a community eager for something new.
In 1984, Peter moved to Sale to start his own restaurant, passing the chef’s role to their youngest brother, Alan, who had also migrated to Australia.
During this time, Michael focused on overseeing front-of-house operations along with handling the restaurant’s administration and accounts. As their wives, Joanne and Teresa, gradually stepped in to manage-front-of-house duties, bringing warmth, professionalism, and a personal touch that helped shape Lake of China’s signature hospitality, Michael transitioned back into the kitchen to further support the heart of the business.
In 1993, as the restaurant’s popularity grew, Lake of China expanded to include the neighbouring shopfront at 73 Main Street. The expansion boosted seating capacity and allowed the team to host major annual events like Chinese New Year and Mother’s Day – celebrations that have consistently been fully booked year after year.
Behind the scenes, food preparation became a family affair. With seven children between the two families, the next generation also played a role, helping in the kitchen frequently and assisting in front-of-house service.
Today those children are spread across different states, pursuing careers of their own, but always carrying a piece of Lake of China with them.
Lake of China has become a beloved institution in Bairnsdale, well known for its value-for-money smorgasbord and generous hospitality.
But beyond the food, it’s the relationships that have made the journey most meaningful for them.
Their favourite part of running the business have been the friendships, they’ve built a real community with loyal customers, long-time suppliers, and staff who feel like family.
Now, after 44 years of service, the family behind Lake of China has decided to retire. The decision comes with both gratitude and nostalgia.
“We love the Bairnsdale community and are so grateful for all the support over the years, we will miss serving your local Chinese food,” Michael said.
“A big thank you to all of our dedicated staff over the years we wouldn’t be here without you. Lastly, we wish the new owners all the very best.”
As the wok cools and the final dishes are served, Lake of China leaves behind more than just memories – it leaves a legacy of courage, culture and community.
