This year 10 students from across East Gippsland completed the Kokoda Trail under the Arthur Grassby Scholarships.
Perry Elliot (Bairnsdale Secondary College) and Ecco McLeod-Kourie (Nagle College) compiled the following diary of their experience.
Perry covered the first half of the trek (days 1-4) and Ecco the remainder.
Their contributions are as follows
PERRY’S DIARY
The Kokoda Trail is a trek in the footstep of the soldiers of World War II who fought to save Australia and allow people to greater appreciate what they endured and sacrificed. Many came from our area.
I was over the moon when I found out I had been selected for an Arthur Grassby Scholarship.
It started with an essay application, from there we were then interviewed by current or ex-servicemen and women, before finding out if we got accepted.
After finding out the exciting news we started training at Mount Taylor every Sunday morning up until we left, starting in early May.
Throughout trainings we were able to meet some of the other students who we would be hiking with from different schools across. We all became very close friends and super excited to leave.
Travel began on July 2, driving to Melbourne to meet everyone (including kids from other areas of Victoria) and caught our first plane to Brisbane.
After arriving in Brisbane, we were presented with our Adventure Kokoda shirts and went over some last-minute information.
Everyone was buzzing with excitement. We spent a few hours trying to wrap our head around the fact that this time tomorrow we would be in a different country, Papua New Guinea. Like many, this was my first trip overseas.
DAY 1
We began the Trail on July 4 starting off strong after a 3-hour delay to get to Kokoda, where we would start hiking, due to cloud.
On landing in Kokoda, we were met by a crowd of happy faces waiting for us. We were assigned our porters for the trip, I had Mike (Big Mike) who was the smallest yet happiest porter there (even smaller than me).
We stopped at the Kokoda Museum and checked out some special spots, including the plateau where Arthur Grassby fought at age 16 – one of 100 odd men against 1200 Japanese.
A special visit was to a memorial of the father of one of the girls on the trek. He was to trek in 2009 but was on a plane that crashed killing all 13. Amelia was only one year-old at the time and was trekking in memory of her father.
We also met many gorgeous kids which held our hands until we left, I shared toys, hair clips and other gifts with them before hugging goodbye.
We set off on a short hike of just on hour to Kovello where we were staying overnight. Although we didn’t hike very far on the first day, we still had it hard.
It was very hot and then started bucketing down rain, flooding many tents and soaking everything. Because of this, a few girls (including me) found ourselves sleeping under the dining table in the food hut!
DAY 2
Woke up at 5.30am to start our first big day. We passed through the village of Hoy and then a climb to Deniki for morning tea – such an incredible view. We all ate bananas and donuts made by the locals which were so good.
It was still quite wet and raining most of the day as we walked up steep and slippery hills, becoming absolutely covered in mud. My grey boots were now completely brown with a thick layer of mud.
We hiked to Isurava village where we stopped to eat lunch. “Bos Kuk” David prepared our noodle meal for lunch. We finished our day by reaching Isurava memorial (some distance from the Village) which felt so high up considering we had only been hiking two days.
Isurava memorial was beautiful. A major battle site where many died, it looks out over an incredible view between mountains, which had the fluffiest low cloud that filled up this naturally made gap.
There were four stone monuments with the words courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice. These words were a big part of what our soldiers adhered to and it was really special to hear about.
On the way to our camp for the night we were met by local adults and kids which we were so excited to meet and play with. We spoke with them about the reason we were here, and they showed us their baby cassowary which Connor fed banana to.
The kids were determined to show us the big cassowary which they told us was just up that hill (pointing). Let’s just say it was longer than one hill with each hill came the next making this journey seem very long.
We ventured up, led by 10 other kids to see the big bird. It was massive and was kept underneath one of their village huts.
We took photos with the kids and then made our way back to camp for dinner. After dinner we further checked out the memorial and listened to special stories about other significant war spots which surrounded us.
Before we went to bed, we all gathered around the table and played card games and had a laugh.
DAY 3
We woke up with the sun today at 5.15am. Tim woke us earlier as we were having a ceremony to honour soldiers who had lost their lives in Isurava.
We read the names of fallen soldiers before singing our national anthem and then listening to our porters sing theirs – they sang like angels.
We then hit the Trail again. A little while after starting another big climb, we paused at surgeon’s rock which was a large flat rock where amputations and procedures were performed during the war.
We all gathered around this rock and listened to the stories, which included Butch Bisset dying in the arms of his brother Stan next to the rock.
We stopped at this really cute village called Alola which had the best view. We seemed so much higher up and the view seemed endless, disappearing into the horizon.
The heavy rain had cleared up so it was a nice change. We then stopped at Eora Creek for lunch. This was the site of a battle and location of a hospital.
When we arrived in Templetons Crossing later that day, it was like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were surrounded by massive trees and cliffs and the creek which flowed through it had large rocks to sit on.
The water was freezing. I washed my legs then got rugged up and played cards with a few from the group. Before bed, Andrew and I laid on the rocks and watched the stars in the middle of the jungle.
It was a freezing night and very windy, falling asleep listening to the sounds of the flowing creek right beside us.
DAY 4
Woke up at 5.30am and walked for what seemed like a century uphill to the Kokoda gap but was so worth it – the view was next level and we were able to see where we had walked and the last hill we had stopped at.
I got a photo with Big Mike and a few other mates then we continued to slowly hike in the boiling hot weather (we were missing the rain now).
We passed through a little village then stopped at a cliff side place called 1900 (after the height of the location) which had this cool little bridge that had only been made two weeks prior.
We sat and ate lunch over the cliff edge near the water. It was such a nice day, perfectly sunny. I met some more kids and did drawings with them whilst the boys attempted to get the kids to fly a kite.
We then packed and headed for camp at “Bombers”. It had a good-sized creek running through it which was perfect for swimming and we had tents everywhere because we bumped into another hiking group that was coming the other way. The camp had a volleyball court set up too.
We went straight for a dip in the creek. It was cold but nice considering how hot and sweaty we were. After that we checked out the old plane crash and bomb crater, which is how Bombers Camp got its name. We then listened to a few war time stories before drying off.
Afterwards we laid in the sun and watched our porters and locals get into their volleyball game before joining and versing some local kids – so much fun. Fletcher had us cracked up sending every single ball into the creek.
Then most of us paid five kina to have our first hot shower since leaving Australia. It was so worth it, so warm compared to the creek and no complaints minus the shower curtain blowing open attempting to flash you!
After dinner we all sat up in the dining room and made bracelets for the local kids whilst listening to music and gaining abs from laughing so hard.
Before bed a few of us went to sit to look at the stars and do our daily journal which turned into the funniest convo as it always did. I had my worst sleep yet as there were rocks underneath my tent where I was laying.
ECCO’S DIARY
DAY 5
Lovely 5am rise to our beautiful wake up music. Left Bombers Camp around 6.40am and punched out down the mountain till 9.30am where we had lunch and met with the other group of students trekking the other way at Luanamu (also known as Efogi 2).
We kept walking down the mountain afterwards and crossed a river on two huge logs for the bridge. Then a very steep climb back up where we had a break from the sun and heat and got some local fruit/nuts as well as buying a native made beanie.
Arrived at Efogi (our camp site) at 2.50pm and cooled down before playing soccer, rugby and footy with the locals. Then a quick break before volleyball. These guys smashed us at all of them.
A good shower to cool down and get the dust off me before eating a lovely dinner of pasta and beef and mushroom stew.
I then unfortunately won the “dickhead of the day” award and whoever wins this has to wear a medal around their neck the next day. Played some cards before going to bed for a big day tomorrow.
DAY 6
A 5am wake up at semi cold Efogi. Packed up real quick and smashed some beans and spaghetti as always. Started our venture at 6:30am and made our way uphill where we had to hold on to a chain where the track drops off to a huge cliff.
Then we visited Kokeshi Nishimura’s tree hole, where he survived attacks from Australian soldiers when his entire platoon was killed. Then a short walk to Brigade Hill which is a very significant site.
We spent some time soaking it in and paying respect to our soldiers before having some morning tea. It was here Fletcher stood in the place where his great uncle Charlie McCallum was killed and he was the first of his family to go back there, which was special for all of us.
Then a walk down and back up to lunch at Menari where Gary fell and broke his arm and shattered his shoulder, which required a chopper out.
Then a hot/sweaty climb up over the next mountain and a long hot walk down to Agologo for camp. We had a quick swim in the creek before dinner. Mash and chicken stew for dinner with another entree of soup.
Wrote my journal and then went to bed for an even earlier wake up so we can get into tomorrow’s big climb before it gets too hot.
DAY 7
Today was felt like a huge day! Woke up at an early 4:30am, packed up quick before leaving Agologo Camp. We started with head torches on walking in the dark through a swamp, then across the Brown River on a fallen tree, holding on to my porter Rex so I wouldn’t slip.
Then we walked through the rest of the swamp before starting to walk up the massive hill called the Maguli Range to Naduri, arriving around 8:00am when we had morning tea.
Then we walked over the top of the Maguli Range peak which was up and down the whole time. We then pressed on to Banana Camp where we had lunch with some beautiful views.
Next we walked down the ridge into camp and made it to Ofi Village at an early 1:50pm. The whole day was super hot and humid and we were sweating our heads off.
Good thing the creek here is swimmable, so we all jumped in and cooled off for an hour and a half. Got dried up and sat around the table having a yarn until dinner.
Cleaned up a bowl of chicken noodle soup and then some tuna with some stew and sat back at the table writing my diary before heading to bed for a 5am wake up.
DAY 8
Lovely 5am wake up. I’m getting so used to it now that I wake up a few minutes beforehand.
Then we started off up the hill while it was still not too hot. Up Ioribaiwa Ridge for a battle site briefing as this was as far as the Japanese made it – and then down to Ioribaiwa village for morning tea.
Took in the view of Imita Ridge where we were headed, then trekked down before travelling for 40 minutes up a creek on the way to lunch. I bought a necklace using Amelia’s Kina in exchange for writing her diary for her.
After lunch we made our long and hot trek up Imita Ridge. Finally made it to the top after a very hot and sweaty climb, literally dripping. Got to the top and felt amazing!
We sat around and enjoyed the view before Tim informed us of the significance of the ridge as it was where the Australians made their final stand before pushing the Japanese back.
Afterwards we walked down to the camp at Goodwater (also known as Imita Base). It does have good water! When we arrived, the locals were selling some donuts so cheap we couldn’t resist.
Then a dip in the very good water and next we watched the porter boys and Bos kuk prepare the “mumu” (a traditional dish of chicken cooked on hot rocks). It was a look into their culture.
We played some soccer with the local kids and had a yarn with the group. Devoured the mumu chicken then Tim gave us a run down of tomorrow.
We also got our wooden handcrafted mementos from our porters! Mine is amazing. Thanks Rex! Heading to bed now before our last day.
DAY 9
Woke up with mixed feelings. Packed up my bags and got a gift pack ready for Rex of some stuff I didn’t want to take home and he could use more than me.
Started walking just after 6am down to the Goldie River where we waded across. It was the deepest water yet at waist height. Once we crossed we got the boots back on and had our last climb up to Owers Corner.
We arrived there just after 8am and finished as a group together, all cheering each other along. We said goodbye to our porters and I handed Rex my gift bag and wished him farewell. I’m really going to miss him.
Then we got some photos and started our fun roller coaster bus trip to the Bomana War Cemetery. Along the way we stopped at McDonald’s Corner, which was the original start of the Trail in 1942 and paid respects before flying around some more dodgy back roads into the outer skirts of Port Moresby.
Once at the cemetery we had a briefing and headed off on our own to pay respects to our soldiers who sacrificed their tomorrow for our today.
We had all carried a soldier’s photo and details across the track, found out what happened to them and where and now it was time to visit their graves / memorials.
I visited Joe Dwyer’s memorial and had a talk to him before walking around and visiting the other graves. Joe was from Bairnsdale and was killed on the Trail. He was part of the Dwyers Motor Group family.
At the hotel we jumped in the pool while the adults had a drink to celebrate. Afterwards we had our presentations where we all celebrated everyone for making it through the Kokoda Trail and had the nicest dinner yet.
HEADING HOME
We had finished the Trail but had to be up at 3.30am to catch the plane. Woke up early at 3am brushed my teeth and met everyone at reception. Bus to the airport and went through security before getting on the plane and flying to Brisbane.
Then we landed in Brisbane and I instantly felt the cold even though it was only 16 degrees. Flight delayed so waited around and watched Andrew get an ear piercing (his mum will kill him).
During the plane ride Perry, the lady, and I just talked the whole trip about adventures, life, our trip, where she’s going, plans for the future and everything in between.
What an experience! I am truly grateful for it. The Kokoda trail has changed my perspective on life and was extremely humbling.
Both of us (Perry and I) and all the other students give our thanks to the sponsors who gave us and the others this amazing experience we will never forget and thanks to Adventure Kokoda for looking after us so well.
